South China Morning Post-‘Welcome to limbo: Somaliland, country that never was’

From the cave paintings at Laas Geel to striking colonial architecture, the people of this self-declared East African nation have good reason to be proud. It is well worth a visit, even if tourism infrastructure is lacking.

Rather surprisingly, as a Briton, I feel at home in Hargeisa, the ram­bunc­tious capital of Somaliland, a country that doesn’t legally exist. It is partly because the locals gather for tea and a slice of cake in the afternoon, but also because I find myself being hailed by Somalilanders with distinctly London accents.

“What brings you here, mate? Good to see ya!” proclaims one returned diaspora man, leaning out of his car window.

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